Birdwatching Tour: Ecuador – Eastern Andes and the Exotic Amazon

Arrive at Mariscal Sucre Airport in Tababela and transfer to Puembo Birding Garden or a similar high-quality lodge.

About Quito:
Quito is arguably the most attractive of all South American colonial capitals. Nestled in a valley at the foot of the Pichincha Volcano, the city is surrounded by Andean peaks and snow-capped mountains on a clear day, with the sun shining brightly. The climate is delightful, earning the nickname “Eternal Spring” in the ancient Quichua language. At 9,000 feet, Quito is the second-highest capital in the world, yet it’s small enough by South American standards to stroll through its colonial streets without getting lost or overwhelmed by the distances.

Our 40-minute flight departs Quito at 9:00 AM, crossing the Andes to the port city of Coca. After disembarking into the warm, humid air of the jungle, local naturalist guides will take us to Sacha Lodge’s private house for a quick lunch before we board a covered motorized canoe for a two-hour, 50-mile journey down the Napo River to Sacha Lodge. The river is rich in sediment, with vast sandy beaches exposed during the dry season. Along the way, we’ll spot birds like the Greater Yellow-headed Vulture, Black and Yellow-headed Caracaras, Cocoi and Capped Herons, Ringed and Amazon Kingfishers, and birds of prey.

Upon arrival at the 5,000-acre Sacha Lodge reserve, we’ll take our first walk along a raised boardwalk through a dense flooded palm forest, where we might see various monkey species, including Squirrel Monkeys and White-fronted Capuchins. The trail leads to the serene, black-water oxbow lake of Pilchicocha, where traditional canoes (with paddlers!) will ferry us across to the lodge, nestled in the heart of the jungle.

After a welcome drink, we’ll begin birdwatching around the lodge before sunset. The Igapó habitat surrounding Pilchicocha hosts a population of Hoatzin, that peculiar, Archaeopteryx-like bird, along with Greater Ani, Red-capped Cardinal, Black-capped Donacobius, Magpie Tanager, Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Violaceous Jay, Great and Lesser Kiskadees, and many more.

After the first of Sacha’s excellent buffet meals, we’ll retire to our comfortable cabins, listening to the new sounds of the jungle that will soon become familiar during our stay in this magical forest.

At Sacha Lodge, there are two types of guides, and it’s essential to assign you the correct type to ensure you get the most out of your jungle experience. Most visitors enjoy a “general” jungle experience, accompanied by an English-speaking naturalist guide and a local guide. In this scenario, you can expect some birdwatching, mammal spotting, a canopy tower visit, night canoe trips on the oxbow lake in search of caimans, talks on medicinal plants and soil ecology, and a visit to the butterfly house.

The other type of guide is a knowledgeable bird guide with a full library of bird calls. With this guide, you can expect birdwatching from dawn until dusk, including the calling of more secretive species using playback to see as many species as possible during your stay.

Generally, on this Eastern Andes/Amazon tour, we tend to attract keen birdwatchers, most of whom enjoy the full birdwatching experience at Sacha Lodge. However, a percentage of most groups (sometimes up to half) prefer the more general visit with a naturalist guide. We assume you prefer the “intense” birdwatching experience for now. If you think you might prefer a break from birdwatching and opt for a more general experience, please let us know as soon as possible, and we’ll be happy to make the necessary arrangements.

Morning: We’ll start the day at 5:00 AM with breakfast for everyone. We’ll take a snack pack with fruits, water, sandwiches, and chocolate bars for mid-morning. At 6:00 AM, we’ll head out in a canoe to the birdwatching tower, navigating along the beautiful tannin-rich blackwater stream (Igapó).

Once at the tower, we’ll spend most of the morning birdwatching (bring a hat and insect repellent, as the bugs become active as the sun rises; long pants and long-sleeved shirts are recommended). We’ll stay at the tower until 10:30 AM, then take a hike on one of the trails until noon, when we’ll return to the lodge.

Birds you may spot from the tower include: Guans, Vultures, Kites, Hawks, Eagles, Falcons, Pigeons, Macaws, Parrots, Amazons, Parakeets, Small Parakeets, Cuckoos, Swifts, Trogons, Jacamars, Puffbirds, Nunbirds, Barbets, Toucans, Aracaris, Woodpeckers, Woodcreepers, Flycatchers, Thrushes, Warblers, Tanagers, Cotingas, Oropendolas, Orioles, and more.

About the Canopy Tower: Standing 43 meters high, this amazing structure, built around a giant kapok tree, offers splendid views of the surrounding rainforest canopy. With some luck, we may also see Red-howler Monkeys, Squirrel Monkeys, Pygmy Marmosets, White-fronted Capuchin Monkeys, and 3-toed Sloths from the tower. We’ll also try to catch the sunset over the western horizon from the tower while watching the last flights of the daytime birds.

Midday: At ground level, we have an extensive trail system that winds through both upland and flooded forests, offering challenging birdwatching opportunities within the forest interior. We’ll keep our ears and eyes open for Tinamous, Antbirds, Antwrens, Antshrikes, Antpittas, Woodcreepers, Flycatchers, Hummingbirds, and other understory species. Occasionally, we may also spot terrestrial mammals like peccaries, agoutis, armadillos, and tapirs. It’s important to go quietly and watch for any movement in the understory.

Afternoon: We’ll have lunch at 1:00 PM and rest until 3:30 PM. Then, we’ll take a canoe trip on the lagoon to observe Hoatzin, Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, Limpkin, Capped Heron, Kingfishers, and other aquatic birds along the lagoon’s edge.

Evening: Dinner will be from 7:30 PM to 8:30 PM. After dinner, we’ll review the day’s bird sightings. For those with energy left, we’ll attempt to spot the Tropical Screech Owl, Crested Owl, Black-banded Owl, Great Potoo, and Common Potoo.

Morning: We’ll start our day with breakfast at 5:00 AM, making sure to take snacks and water for mid-morning. At 6:00 AM, we’ll embark on a canoe trip to the Parrot Clay Lick (Saladero or Kolpa) in Yasuní National Park, located 30 minutes downstream from Sacha on the Napo River. Under ideal conditions (sunny and dry), we can witness dozens of parrots and parakeets feeding on the exposed clay along the riverbank between 7:00 AM and 8:00 AM, in a breathtaking display of sound and color. The clay acts as a natural ‘antacid,’ neutralizing the toxins from the fruits they consume.

If the weather isn’t favorable, we have an alternative plan that includes visiting the aerial walkways over the forest canopy, which feature birdwatching towers at both ends, or exploring the lodge’s butterfly house, one of the largest in Ecuador.

During the return canoe trip from the parrot clay lick, we’ll make a stop of about an hour on one of the Napo River’s islets to observe special bird species that are unique to these islands, such as Castelnau’s and Barred Antshrikes, Black-throated and Black-and-white Antbirds, Parker’s and White-bellied Spinetails, Lesser Hornero, Grey-breasted Crake, Mouse-colored Tyrannulet, Spotted Tody-Flycatcher, Fuscous Flycatcher, River Tyrannulet, Riverside Tyrant, and the Great Crested Flycatcher, a boreal migrant seen between February/March/November.

We’ll return to the lodge around noon to rest, recharge, and prepare for lunch, which will be served at 1:30 PM. After lunch, there will be time for a rest or nap until 3:40 PM.

Afternoon: At 3:40 PM, we’ll visit the Canopy Walkway. Sacha Lodge boasts one of the best canopy walkways in the Western Amazon, and it’s one of the few self-standing suspension walkways in the world. Two of the three towers feature observation platforms every 12 meters, making them accessible to everyone. The 900-foot-long walkway is suspended 36 meters above the forest floor, allowing guests to move at their own pace while enjoying spectacular views.

These last two hours of daylight are perfect for birdwatching from the canopy. If anyone in the group has issues with vertigo or heights, please let us know in advance so we can adjust the activity and suggest an alternative. If the group prefers not to walk along the elevated walkway and its towers, we can switch to birdwatching on one of the established trails or take a canoe ride on the lagoon. As evening falls, we’ll return to the lodge to relax and soak in the tranquility of the lagoon and the surrounding rainforest.

Evening: Dinner will be served at 7:30 PM. After dinner, we’ll review the list of birds recorded during the day. For those still feeling energetic, we’ll attempt to spot some nocturnal bird species.

Morning: We will have breakfast at 5:00 AM. At 6:00 AM, we’ll start birdwatching until 9:00 AM on one of the trails near the lodge, or if preferred, we can visit the bird observation tower one last time.
At 10:00 AM, we’ll be ready to leave Sacha Lodge and continue with our itinerary. We’ll take a 2-hour canoe ride back to El Coca. From there, a van will drive us directly to Cabañas San Isidro, a journey of approximately 4 hours, ascending the foothills of the Andes. We’ll make a few brief stops of 5 to 10 minutes along the way to observe species of interest.

Afternoon: We will arrive at San Isidro around 5:00 PM. After settling into our rooms, we can enjoy some late afternoon birdwatching around the lodge, including the hummingbird gardens and other feeders.

Evening: Dinner will be served at 7:30 PM. After dinner, we’ll attempt to spot the San Isidro Owl around the lodge.

This day offers a transition from the Amazon rainforest to the Andean foothills, with ample opportunities for birdwatching across diverse habitats.

Morning: We’ll have breakfast at 6:00 AM and then begin birdwatching for the entire morning, starting with the hummingbird gardens and tanager feeders. We’ll try to spot two species of Antpittas: White-bellied Antpitta and Ochre-breasted Antpitta. On one of these mornings, we’ll follow a trail to see the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock at a small lek, about 35 minutes from the lodge.
We’ll return to the lodge around 11:00 AM to observe the hummingbird and tanager feeders a bit more.

Midday: We’ll have lunch at 1:00 PM.

Afternoon: After lunch, we’ll explore another trail in search of more birds.

Evening: Dinner will be at 7:30 PM. After dinner and making the day’s bird list, we’ll make another attempt to spot and photograph the San Isidro Owl.

IMPORTANT ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ABOUT CABAÑAS SAN ISIDRO
After leaving behind Sacha Lodge and El Coca, packed and on board, we’ll head east across the Amazonian floodplain. If the weather is clear, the Andes will gradually appear on the horizon, with the isolated volcanic peak of Sumaco (12,600 feet – inactive) to the north of our route. After 3 hours of relatively uneventful travel, we’ll reach the Andean foothills and begin gaining altitude, finally arriving at Cabañas San Isidro, located at 6,800 feet in the picturesque Quijos Valley, one of the most westernmost headwaters of the Amazon Basin.

Cabañas San Isidro was founded over forty years ago by the Bustamante family from Quito when unexplored lands in eastern Ecuador were made available to the public by a government campaign to turn unclaimed lands into productive farms. With deep concern for proper natural resource management and the urgent need to protect the area’s unique flora and fauna, Simón Bustamante (one of the pioneering modern explorers of the Ecuadorian Amazon) left most of his 1,300-hectare property untouched despite pressure to clear the forest. Over the years, and through a slow evolution, Cabañas San Isidro has become a comfortable lodge focused on birdwatching and nature, surrounded by some of the largest and most accessible areas of subtropical primary rainforest in Ecuador. Simón’s daughter, Carmen, has managed the lodge for the last 25 years. This comfortable and excellently located base will be our home for the next 2 nights.

Cabañas San Isidro and its immediate surroundings boast a bird list of around 310 species, many of which are easier to find here than anywhere else in Ecuador. From the lodge, trails pass through altitudinal gradients ranging from 2,400 meters to 1,850 meters. This means that birdwatchers have an ideal base to observe Andean birds from the lower temperate zones to the heart of the subtropical zone. Birds such as Highland Tinamou, Greater Scythebill, Bicolored Antvireo, Peruvian and Giant Antpittas, and White-rimmed Brush-Finch are some of the exciting rarities that inhabit San Isidro Lodge. The White-faced Nunbird might even show up, as it has been seen at San Isidro more in recent years than at any other single site on the eastern slope of Ecuador.

While rarities are fun to search for, they are difficult to find and should not be expected. What really makes San Isidro Lodge a pleasure for birdwatching are the dozens of other bird species that you have a good chance of seeing while leisurely strolling along forest trails and wooded road edges. Choose a direction to start walking from the cabins, and there will be birds all around. From the cabin door, you can start looking for White-capped Parrot, Powerful Woodpecker, Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher, Pale-edged Flycatcher, Smoky Bush-Tyrant, Green-and-black Fruiteater, Inca Jay, Black-billed Peppershrike, Andean Solitaire, and Saffron-crowned Tanager.

A short walk from the cabins, the forest awaits, either along one of the winding trails or simply from the roadside. Here, mixed understory and canopy flocks seem to drip from the foliage, frugivores – large and small – raid trees and bushes for the ‘fruit of the month’ and skulking birds move in the shadow of the low vegetation, betraying their presence with the occasional whistled call. Pay special attention to Sickle-winged Guan, Crested and Golden-headed Quetzals, Masked Trogon, Highland Motmot, Black-billed Mountain-Toucan, Streak-capped and Striped Treehunters, Long-tailed Antbird (a bamboo specialist), Chestnut-crowned, White-bellied, and Slate-crowned Antpittas, Barred Antthrush, Marble-faced & Variegated Bristle-Tyrants, and Sulphur-bellied Tyrannulet (just a few of the long list of varied tyrannids found in mixed flocks), Black-chested Fruiteater, Dusky Piha, Pale-footed Swallow, Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonia, Golden-collared Honeycreeper, a wonderful selection of colorful tanager species, including Red-hooded and White-capped Tanagers and Northern Mountain and Subtropical Caciques. All of these species, among many others, are resident here and are commonly seen by visitors.

Of all the known sites where the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock is found in Ecuador, the small congregation of bright orange individuals at the San Isidro lek (most active between October-March) is relatively accessible, being just a twenty-minute walk from the cabins along an easy-to-walk trail. Once the morning activity dies down, around 10 AM, it’s time to watch the skies for raptors soaring over the lodge’s forests on sunny days: Plain-breasted, Barred, and White-rumped Hawks, and Black-and-chestnut Eagles are easily visible during a stay of a few days. With a bit of extra luck, a Semicollared Hawk or even a Solitary Eagle might appear.

You don’t need to go beyond the front porch or hummingbird garden to enjoy the dazzling array of hummingbird species. 18 of the 30 known hummingbird species in the area are residents or seasonal visitors to the feeders: Sparkling Violetear, Speckled Hummingbird, Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Bronzy and Collared Incas, Buff-tailed (the rare eastern race flavescens) and Chestnut-breasted Coronets, Tyrian Metaltail, Long-tailed Sylph, and Gorgeted Woodstar can be found at the feeders for much (or all) of the year, while species such as Brown and Green Violetears, Rufous-vented Whitetip, Violet-fronted Brilliant, White-tailed Hillstar, Mountain Velvetbreast, Wedge-billed Hummingbird, and White-bellied Woodstar show more seasonality and tend to be present in smaller numbers. The hummingbird garden is an excellent place to relax after a long walk or during a storm.

San Isidro and its surroundings abound in nocturnal birds, including Andean Potoo (rare, but sometimes seen), Rufous-bellied Nighthawk (almost every morning and evening around the cabins), and Rufous-banded and Mottled Owls (both inhabiting the immediate surrounding forests), but the most exciting nocturnal attraction in recent years has been a large, beautiful owl species currently only known from the forests near the lodge, where it emerges at dusk, then hunts (right next to the cabins) every night. On two occasions, the resident pair has even raised chicks. Similar in appearance to the Black-banded Owl, many of the best ornithologists believe it represents a new species to science, and studies are underway to determine its identity. During a multi-night stay like ours, guests have a very good chance of seeing this owl, and at very close range.

There have been a few sightings in other areas, but nowhere else has this ‘mystery owl’ been recently and reliably seen. What better way to end a day of birdwatching than with a beautiful new species of owl!

Most nights at Cabañas San Isidro will be spent resting, but guests can enjoy a delicious variety of meals from our à la carte menu in our comfortable dining room. The tropical gardens are also a great place to relax and enjoy a wide variety of fruits.

Morning: We’ll have breakfast at 5:30 AM and then head out to see the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock at a small lek located 35 minutes from the lodge. We’ll return to the lodge by 10:30 AM to gather our belongings before continuing our journey to Guango Lodge.

Midday: We’ll either have lunch at Guango Lodge or bring box lunches, depending on availability. We’ll spend approximately two hours at Guango Lodge, exploring the grounds and visiting the hummingbird garden with its diverse species. Guango is situated at an elevation of 2,700 meters (8,860 feet), so the temperature will start to cool down.

Afternoon: We’ll depart from Guango Lodge at 3:00 PM and head to the Papallacta hot springs, where we’ll spend the night in an ecolodge at an elevation of 3,100 meters (10,170 feet). The hot springs feature thermal pools, perfect for relaxation.

IMPORTANT ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ABOUT GUANGO LODGE AND TERMAS DE PAPALLACTA 

After enjoying one last morning around the cabins at San Isidro, we will drive to the eastern slopes of the Andes for lunch at Guango Lodge, located approximately 1 hour from San Isidro at an elevation of 2,700 meters (8,858 feet) above sea level. This area is classified as temperate rainforest, a distinctly different habitat from San Isidro, characterized by shorter trees (and a denser canopy), cooler climate, and a different composition of birds and plants. In the hummingbird gardens, we will find species such as the Viridian Metaltail, Tourmaline Sunangel, Sword-billed Hummingbird, White-bellied Woodstar, Chestnut-breasted Coronet, Speckled Hummingbird, and Bronzy and Collared Incas. Other bird species may also be seen in these gardens, including the Turquoise Jay, Hooded, Blue-capped, and Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager.

After a bird-filled visit to Guango, we will continue our ascent to 3,100 meters (10,171 feet) above sea level at the Termas de Papallacta, where we will spend the night in the thermal waters. A freshly cooked trout, a bottle of cold Chilean wine, and a soak in the hot water under the Ecuadorian stars: there can’t be many better ways to end a day of birdwatching!

Morning: We will leave Termas de Papallacta early at 6:00 AM towards the Antisana National Park, heading directly to Tambo Cóndor at 3,400 meters above sea level where we will have our breakfast. Tambo Cóndor is a small but adequate restaurant focused on environmental education of the moor and its species. It maintains a beautiful garden for Andean hummingbirds, where you can see and photograph the Giant Hummingbird, Great Sapphire Wing, Tyrian Metaltail, Black-tailed Trainbearer and Sparkling Violetear, among other species.

In the cliffs of Antisanilla, in front of Tambo Cóndor, is the most important bedroom in Ecuador for the Andean Condor, so there is a very high possibility of seeing more than one individual, sometimes up to 20, and with luck, the impressive Bear Andean. After breakfast, we will continue towards the eastern crest of the Andes to the imposing snow-capped mass of the Antisana volcano, with several stops depending on the species of birds and other fauna that can be seen along the route. With a little luck, we might find more Andean Condors gliding over our route and Variable Sparrowhawk, Black-breasted Eagle, Aplomado Falcon, Black Harrier, Chestnut-winged Cyclodes, Thick-billed Cyclodes, Andean Lapwing, Andean Gull, Striped-backed and Striped Pratincoles, Black and Glossy Flowerpiercer, Bandit-tailed Seedeater, Fawn Antpitta , Flat-capped Ground Tyrant, Black-billed Shrike-tyrant, White-crested Elaenia, Blue-mantled Thornbill, Ecuadorian Mountain Star, Andean Ibis and Moor Pipit. In addition, it is possible to see white-tailed deer and, with luck, the Andean Fox.

We will visit Lake Micacocha, which is within sight of the glaciers of the Antisana snow-capped mountain. Here we will look for Andean coot, silvery grebe, Andean teal, yellow-billed duck and Andean red duck. After observing the typical water birds of the high Andes, we will drive back to the Tambo Cóndor Restaurant to enjoy some hot drinks and a nice lunch.

Afternoon: After lunch, and with enough time, we will head to the airport in time to check in for our flight back home or start your new block.

This final day culminates a wonderful birdwatching adventure in Ecuador for block 2, with the opportunity to enjoy the impressive biodiversity and landscapes of the Andes and the Amazon.